Hahn Turbo install questions

  • I figured I'd start a thread for any questions that come up while I'm finally trying to get my Hahn turbo installed.


    First question is about using Teflon on the drain fitting connecting into the oil pan -
    The Hahn turbo instructions don't specify using Teflon on the drain fitting that connects into the oil pan while the Alpha instructions do. I assume Teflon should be used. I know NOT to use Teflon on the flare fittings! I test-fit the fitting and while I didn't fully tighten it, it looks like it will take a decent amount of force to get the fitting aligned upwards to meet the drain hose coming down from the turbo.


    Second question is about getting fittings into hoses -
    Is there a trick beyond using silicone spray to make it easier to get the fittings onto the drain hose? When I first tried using just the silicone spray, I could only get the fitting about halfway into the hose. Guess I spent way too much time behind a desk when I was working. :( I'm now considering using hot water to hopefully soften the hose first, then silicone spray and plan on using compressed air to make sure the hose and fittings are dried out before installing the hose.


    Any help appreciated!

  • There is a product called Slip Ez I think it was called that my buddy us to use all of the time. He was a fleet mechanic.

  • Yes, I would use Teflon tape on the drain line to the pan. Just did mine without and its slowing leaking a small amount of oil.

    You can't get these hoses on with just simple glass cleaner? Which hoses are you talking about? It shouldn't be crazy difficult...

    Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D

  • After doing some online searching, I'm leaning towards Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant. It's rated to 400F and acts a thread lock, but not as tight as a conventional threadlock. It's supposed to be better than Teflon tape or paste.Per Amazon - Suggested Applications: head bolts into through holes, oil PSI sending units and sensors, oil and coolant lines, fuel fittings, rear axle fill plug, brake and power steering fittings.


    Hahn recommends using a silicone spray to make it easier to connect the various charge hoses for the turbo. In my case, I'm trying to get the Turbo drain hose over the connectors that connect to the turbo drain and the oil pan turbo drain inlet. Here's a pic of the hose and fittings - Hopefully, the hot water and silicone spray will do the trick. Using just the silicone spray (some of it got on my hands), I could only get a little over half (maybe 2/3) of the fitting into the hose before my hand holding the hose couldn't hold the hose tightly enough to keep forcing the fitting into the hose.

    Edited once, last by BKL ().

  • You need to put some heavy oil, engine oil will work. Set it up so once it starts keep pushing initial it's all the way on. If you stop half way you done.
    This is a clampless barb, the barbs are larger in diameter than standard fuel/water fittings.
    Put the fitting against something solid and push on hose, I use the side of my work bench or vise.
    Aeroquip has an assemblies lube for this and it's a thick oil like STP. Use the silicon spray for the large silicone hoses if needed. I was able to put them together without any lube.

  • You need to put some heavy oil, engine oil will work. Set it up so once it starts keep pushing initial it's all the way on. If you stop half way you done.
    This is a clampless barb, the barbs are larger in diameter than standard fuel/water fittings.
    Put the fitting against something solid and push on hose, I use the side of my work bench or vise.
    Aeroquip has an assemblies lube for this and it's a thick oil like STP. Use the silicon spray for the large silicone hoses if needed. I was able to put them together without any lube.

    I was holding the fitting with the hose against the floor. Naturally, the hose tended to bend when pushed. X( I was thinking about trying it the way you suggested. Will try regular oil.

  • I'm looking for some photos of the install...I have what seems to be a boost leak, but not sure where it's coming from. Any pics would help me narrow it down a bit.

    I haven't gotten that far yet. I received my kit last November, then decided to wait for my swing-arm to be replaced, then asked neighbor about his auto shop class installing the kit, but it was too late in the school year. Then I waited for school to be out, but neighbor's been too busy to help me.
    After all the delays, I can't be sure if I never received some parts or simply misplaced them. Now waiting for Hahn to get back to me on the parts. Will call them later today.
    Do you have the installation instructions? I attached a copy just in case. By boost leak, I assume you mean a pressure leak as opposed to a vacuum leak. I also attached a PDF file showing where Boost leaks might occur. If you have a vacuum leak, it's kind of hard to show the hoses as each installer may choose a different hose routing, but I did include pics of the general hose connections for Stage 2 and Stage 2X setups. H TS-5100 Stage 2&2X Slingshot TurboSystem (2).pdfBoost-Vacuum leaks.pdf
    Good luck trying to find the leak!

  • Post a couple of pics of what you have going on. One of the header/wastegste side and one of the intake manifold side.

    Maybe you aren't plugging the reference port on the turbo? It sounds like Hahn 2X simply just moves wastegste boost reference line from the turbo to the intake side. One of these holes could be left open.

    Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D

  • I'm looking for some photos of the install...I have what seems to be a boost leak, but not sure where it's coming from. Any pics would help me narrow it down a bit.

    IIRC, you've had your Hahn turbo installed for awhile now, correct?


    Try this Google Search for Finding Boost Leaks - finding boost leaks - Google Search
    There are also some good tips on what NOT to do when operating a turbo'd motor. The video on testing a jackstand release mechanism is also pretty interesting.


    Just in case, here's a link on Finding Vacuum Leaks - finding vacuum leaks - Google Search

  • IIRC, you've had your Hahn turbo installed for awhile now, correct?


    Try this Google Search for Finding Boost Leaks - finding boost leaks - Google Search


    Just in case, here's a link on Finding Vacuum Leaks - finding vacuum leaks - Google Search


    Yeah it's been awhile. I have the install guide, but the close up photos aren't the areas I'm looking for. If it's not a vacuum leak, I have a feeling my spark plugs might need to be replaced.


    Sent from my LG-H872 using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

    Actively looking for another sling...It is time...

  • Update - I mounted the turbo yesterday and am getting ready to install the exhaust so I can tighten all of the various connections associated with the turbo and exhaust.How much clearance is there between the turbo intake and the engine and the turbo body and the frame?


    My concern is if I try to position the turbo closer to the engine to allow space near the frame, I may cause problems with the tubing connection to the turbo intake.
    Does this look normal? I probably won't do the exhaust install until tomorrow since I need to go try to get my Daughter's phone screen repaired/replaced.
    Thanks in advance.

  • Pull a spark plug or two and lets see what they look like.


    Things to check...


    1. Is your 2 bar map sensor plugged in correctly? Yes, the adapter allows you to plug it in flipped, so the wires don't match. Look at original wires and the adapter plug to make sure the colors match the way you have it plugged in. When its flipped, it runs really rich, idles like crap, and won't rev that high.


    2. Make sure this same map sensor is fully pressed in and not leaking.


    3. Make sure both vacuum ports on your intake manifold are being used or are plugged. There is a longer stem one up top that probably is being used for the BOV and another wider/shorter one that is lower on the manifold that points back to the drivers seat. Make sure it is in use (most people use a boost gauge here or the wastegste vacuum reference) or it still has the factory cap installed. It should not be left open.


    My bet is #1 if its running really bad. Pictures of plugs will help us understand.

    Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D

  • Just an FYI - 5k on plugs is nothing. Turbo or not.

    I was reading somewhere that on the initial 5K miles you should pull them and look at them and most of the times just replace them, then you can expect normal change times. But who knows...I read it on the internet...You're not allows to lie on the internet right?

    Actively looking for another sling...It is time...

  • Update - I mounted the turbo yesterday and am getting ready to install the exhaust so I can tighten all of the various connections associated with the turbo and exhaust.How much clearance is there between the turbo intake and the engine and the turbo body and the frame?


    My concern is if I try to position the turbo closer to the engine to allow space near the frame, I may cause problems with the tubing connection to the turbo intake.
    Does this look normal? I probably won't do the exhaust install until tomorrow since I need to go try to get my Daughter's phone screen repaired/replaced.
    Thanks in advance.




    Mine hits the frame from torque. I have wore a spot into my turbo from it, but hasn't broken through. I left mine loose because the intake tube took some fitting. Had to split the difference.


    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T537A using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

  • Mine hits the frame from torque. I have wore a spot into my turbo from it, but hasn't broken through. I left mine loose because the intake tube took some fitting. Had to split the difference.


    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T537A using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

    That's kinda what I expected based on the minimal clearances I saw.
    Unfortunately, I'm going out of town for 2 weeks before I can get back to the install.