Tune Needed?

    This site uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our Cookie Policy.

    • NotHisSling2015 wrote:

      I'm getting ready to install the 1320 Header with the Alpha side exit exhaust this next week. My hubby said I could also get the Alpha CAI.....so my question is, do I need to have the computer flashed and the slingshot tuned? Looking for insight! :/
      It would help but no, it's not something you HAVE to do for the changes you're making.
      Slingshots: making children out of adults since 2014
    • Tripod wrote:

      NotHisSling2015 wrote:

      I'm getting ready to install the 1320 Header with the Alpha side exit exhaust this next week. My hubby said I could also get the Alpha CAI.....so my question is, do I need to have the computer flashed and the slingshot tuned? Looking for insight! :/
      It would help but no, it's not something you HAVE to do for the changes you're making.
      Thanks! Just want to make sure I won't be messing anything up!!
    • Tripod wrote:

      @NotHisSling2015:

      Just know that your ECU may act a little weird at first as it "learns" the new intake & exhaust flow - after about 3 runs (take some short, 5-10 mile runs, shut it down, then do it again) it should be fine
      I was wondering the same thing. I received the 1320 header today and will get it installed soon. Then the Welter duals go on next month. I should be at the 500 mile breakin period this week, hopefully not too soon to do heaader and exhaust.
      One thing I noticed with factory setup in my 18SLR is when coming to a light I will sometimes throw in neutral from 3rd gear. Depending on what my rpms are it will bog down like its going to stall then catch itself and maintain a good idle.
    • Slingrazor wrote:

      That stutter is normal on the stock tune. Do you plan on taking the sling back to the dealer for the 500 mile service. If so, I would take it for a ride to get to 500 miles, service it, then mod it.
      Some dealers are a pain with mods.
      • I'm around 400 miles right now, was planning on servicing myself at 500. Hate people scratching up my rides plus I just feel better doing the work myself.
      • I was planning on oil change/Mobil1- K&N filter, drain and fill angle drive with Royal Purple. Do you think to soon for either product? Also is there anything else I should be concerned about at 500 miles for maintenance?
    • Howdy and welcome the wonderful world of self maintenance. The Mobil 1 and K&N filter is a good choice. There's two schools of thought on the angle drive fluid change. One is to get the factory crap out as soon as possible and use either Royal Purple or one of the other quality performance lubes. Polaris on the other hand does not recommend the fluid change (sorry, I don't have my manual handy) for I believe 50,000 miles. Their rational is that the factory gears are not "properly" finished and their road use with the stock lube and their additive, helps the final finishing to the gear set. Regardless of which thought you follow, I don't believe anyone has seen an angle drive failure due to lubrication. There have been many changed for noises and a couple changed when they failed and exploded the cases. But as much as people complain about the angle drives, they have proven to take a beating under the stress of turbos and supercharges and even some high horsepowered white beasts. You make the call
      If your carpet has to match the drapes,
      shouldn't your trailer match your Slingshot?
    • SlikNik wrote:

      I was wondering the same thing. I received the 1320 header today and will get it installed soon. Then the Welter duals go on next month. I should be at the 500 mile breakin period this week, hopefully not too soon to do heaader and exhaust.One thing I noticed with factory setup in my 18SLR is when coming to a light I will sometimes throw in neutral from 3rd gear. Depending on what my rpms are it will bog down like its going to stall then catch itself and maintain a good idle.

      Could you elaborate on the sentence in red?

      I am reading that to say that sometimes when you are slowing down approaching a stop light that the transmission will "kick" out of 3rd gear into neutral.

      If I am understanding that correctly that is an indication that there is a problem with the synchronizer for 3rd gear. You should have your dealer check that out immediately if not sooner and it should be covered under warranty. Definitely get that taken care of before doing ANY mods.
      Tim "The Ghost" Ganey
      Winfield, Alabama
      205spam412spam2868
    • I went with Mobil 1 and K&N filter with Mobil 1 gear lube at 600 miles. I have just shy of 26,000 miles on mine now, no need to add between changes. I might use an 1/8th of an inch from the top fill line between changes. I change it at 3-4k, depending on my use of it and whether on a trip (road miles). It's overkill, I know. But cheap insurance to keep the oil a bit cleaner I say. I do have Royal Purple in the angle drive now, but didn't notice any difference from the Mobil 1. I will say this, loosening up the drive belt a bit will quiet the drive noise and is easier on the rear axle bearings. Many on here do that, and my SS is much happier the belt tension freed up a bit.

      I also checked all the exposed bolts under the hood, loosened and retorqued the lug nuts, and gave a good visual front to rear and underneath. My lug nuts were over double what they should have been torqued to.
      :REDSS: :HEADERSS: :COLDAIRSS: :COILOVERSS: :MOTOROILSS: :OILFILTERSS:
    • The only thing I would add on to what has been said. Buy a belt tension tool to set the tension with. At 10 pounds I run mine between 3/4 and 1 inch. The book calls for 0.6 of an inch. A little looser it better.
      Oil is preferential. I keep it simple by running Mobile 1 in the engine, transmission, and fear box. I like RP as well, just don't see the added cost worth it since I change it out regularly.
    • Slingrazor wrote:

      The only thing I would add on to what has been said. Buy a belt tension tool to set the tension with. At 10 pounds I run mine between 3/4 and 1 inch. The book calls for 0.6 of an inch. A little looser it better.
      Oil is preferential. I keep it simple by running Mobile 1 in the engine, transmission, and fear box. I like RP as well, just don't see the added cost worth it since I change it out regularly.
      Not sure if this is a typo, or just your sense of humor, but I really like it! :00008084: :00008356: :00008172: :00008040:
      :REDSS: :HEADERSS: :COLDAIRSS: :COILOVERSS: :MOTOROILSS: :OILFILTERSS:
    • Ghost wrote:

      SlikNik wrote:

      I was wondering the same thing. I received the 1320 header today and will get it installed soon. Then the Welter duals go on next month. I should be at the 500 mile breakin period this week, hopefully not too soon to do heaader and exhaust.One thing I noticed with factory setup in my 18SLR is when coming to a light I will sometimes throw in neutral from 3rd gear. Depending on what my rpms are it will bog down like its going to stall then catch itself and maintain a good idle.
      Could you elaborate on the sentence in red?

      I am reading that to say that sometimes when you are slowing down approaching a stop light that the transmission will "kick" out of 3rd gear into neutral.

      If I am understanding that correctly that is an indication that there is a problem with the synchronizer for 3rd gear. You should have your dealer check that out immediately if not sooner and it should be covered under warranty. Definitely get that taken care of before doing ANY mods.
      I am wondering why he is coming up to a stop in 3rd gear.
    • Ghost wrote:

      SlikNik wrote:

      I was wondering the same thing. I received the 1320 header today and will get it installed soon. Then the Welter duals go on next month. I should be at the 500 mile breakin period this week, hopefully not too soon to do heaader and exhaust.One thing I noticed with factory setup in my 18SLR is when coming to a light I will sometimes throw in neutral from 3rd gear. Depending on what my rpms are it will bog down like its going to stall then catch itself and maintain a good idle.
      Could you elaborate on the sentence in red?

      I am reading that to say that sometimes when you are slowing down approaching a stop light that the transmission will "kick" out of 3rd gear into neutral.

      If I am understanding that correctly that is an indication that there is a problem with the synchronizer for 3rd gear. You should have your dealer check that out immediately if not sooner and it should be covered under warranty. Definitely get that taken care of before doing ANY mods.
      oh no not that, lets say you down shift from rth to 3rd then to 2nd, throw it neutral, sometimes it bogs down to like 500 rpm but quickly recovers. Feels like it will almost stall at times depending on rpms when I place in neuteal. No big deal really but threw it out there since I was speaking of exhaust mod.
      Thx

    Slingshotinfo.com is not affiliated with Polaris Industries the makers of Polaris Slingshot in any way.