Just bought bill's used Hahn turbo... What else do I need to buy?

Quote from Garrett Taguchi

Maaan... Lol... Just when I thought buying the modified oil pan would be easier... I think I'm just gonna try it the "noel" way and compress the oil pan... I'm hoping someone who just drilled the block without removing the oil pan will comment and tell me everything will be OK lol... So far, only person I know who did that is my friend,and (I'm assuming since he has it in his manual) @Bill from Hahn RaceCraft... Does Hahn ever get on these forums?

Yes. Go to http://www.hahnracecraft.com. Contact sales@hahnracecraft.com for questions about costs.
Here is a link to @rabtech's install from the old forum - RABTECH Hahn Racecraft Stage 2 Turbo project with instructions. Pure Sexy Finished with Videos. | Polaris Slingshot Forum. It's not a complete step-by-step how-to, but has some useful info. @rabtech removed his pan before he drilled his block to make sure no metal particles got into the oil pan. I figure it's worth the several hours to pull the pan for peace-of-mind whether you drill the block, weld a bung in your pan (requires pan removal/reinstall), or swap your pan for a pre-modded pan (also requires removing your pan, swapping pan components and reinstalling).

if you're nervous about drilling and tapping the engine block, ask your friend for assistance. Just remember that there are no guarantees as far as DIY installs.

Do you have the Hahn Turbo install instructions? It explains the drilling process and using grease to try and catch any drilling particles. PM me if you need a copy.

I've been reading the Amazon reviews for the various Permatex Gasket Removers and far more people didn't like them than did. The CRC 05021 Technician Grade Gasket Remover was more favorably rated. All of the plastic scraper blades were rated well. Several folks posted about using Brakleen to clean up after the gasket removers. One guy posted that he liked Gunk Brake Parts Cleaner (Chlorinated) to clean gasket material from oil pans, transmission pans and other pieces.

The problem with drilling the block and NOT removing the oil pan is simple. It has at the oil pickup located under a plate in the bottom of the pan. You can definitely do it without removing the pan and many have done it. However,,,,, If 1 shaving somehow manages to make its way into the oil pickup it would be sad. Especially since it takes only a few hours to assure it is done perfectly. Let me show you a pic of the pan. You make the decision ......

To remove the gasket just use razor blade and scrape and then use a scotch brite pad and some rubbing alcohol to make it all shine and ready for the gray permatex

Make sure you crawl under it and get at least 1 drop of oil into each eye while cleaning the bottom of the engine...

Also , dont be nervous about drilling the block. If you do get to close to the edge of the passage and the bit kinda passes by the side and comes thru you can mix up some JB Weld and smear it over the hole. Just saying ,,,, its not the end of the world....

Hi Garrett!

We have a very detailed installation manual that takes you through these steps...and, well, everything else too. Would you like a copy? I can also provide a detailed parts list for you to compare against the used system you purchased to see if you need any sundry bits. The list also helps familiarize you with what the parts are named, as well as their functions.

Drilling the block in the position we use is relatively straightforward, and superior to all other methods of returning turbo oil to the engine crankcase. We've engineered the system so that turbo oiling is optimized, and will not create oil consumption or smoking. After all, with over forty years of experience producing thousands of TurboSystems, we've learned quite a lot, and optimize our systems accordingly!

Let me know if you need anything else, and welcome to the Hahn Club!

If you do decide to drill and tap with the oil pan in place, we provide a field-proven procedure on how to best accomplish this in the manual. We're able to manage the chips sufficiently that it's of no concern to the engine. We'll also change out the oil after the procedure, which helps to remove any errant bits. Should any remain, the oil pickup screen will keep all but the tiniest ones away from the oil pump...and as those small particles are made of dead-soft cast aluminum, they pose no hazard to your super-hard steel oil pump rotors, and will pass right through to be arrested at the oil filter.

Mind you, this is not an argument against taking the pan off, for those who'd prefer to go that extra mile. Just letting you know that this alternative method is a tried and true approach.

You'll need a spare pair of clean underwear to change into after the first test run

Good luck with the install

It does appear that you have everything. Don't forget you have to flip the wires on the MAP sensor. I believe how to do it is in the install manual that @Bill from Hahn RaceCraft will send you.

Also if your getting bolts for any of it get grade 8 bolts. Don't go for the pretty stainless bolts. They won't be as strong.

Im also hoping they didn't drop or break the o-ring that goes between the throttle body and intake hat. Be careful with it. And make sure you get it on the throttle body good and then tighten it. There is also a aluminum piece on the fitting that allows a tight fit. Make sure its in there.

And get your ECU flashed by Bob. If you send it out there quickly he can get it back to you in a few days.

there is no gasket between the exhaust and the turbo. Just make sure its clean and tighten the bolts good.

The PCV hose needs to go somewhere . Not sure how they have it on this kit. I had a small hose that had a baby K&N filter on the end.

Go get you 4 new NGK 4306 spark plugs. They are $2.50 each and gap them to 35 thousandths.

Some people run the and some don't. Here are mine after 16,000 miles of running my Hahn system. They are textbook perfect.

Quote from rabtech

It does appear that you have everything. Don't forget you have to flip the wires on the MAP sensor. I believe how to do it is in the install manual that @Bill from Hahn RaceCraft will send you.

These days, we use a direct-fit adaptor harness that makes installing the 2-bar sensor plug-n-play. On our older kits, when we first pioneered the 2-bar conversion with Bob at OBD, we included a new 3-pin plug/wiring pigtail that required cutting off the stock MAP plug and connecting the new one. That was apparently when some folks (who were in more of a hurry than they should be) didn't study the wiring instructions closely, and instead just mimicked the stock pin arrangement. Of course, this didn't work worth a damn, as the new plug had a different arrangement, with two wires transposed as compared to stock. Ran like crap, set CEL. It was hard to get these folks to find the apparent problem...and in some cases, it was even harder to get them to admit they'd done it to themselves, even after they'd finally discovered they had! Ah, the joys of tech support across the miles...

@Garrett Taguchi: do you know what type MAP connection you have? If you need an adapter harness, we could still ship one today. I'll also get those install and parts lists docs to you presently.

The injector clip you need will be on your stock injectors, you can just re-use one of those.

Thank you @rabtech for the helping hand!

Quote from BKL

Hahn recommends allowing about 1 week to get the ECU shipped off, reflashed and returned. Bob at OBD Diagnostics charges $500 for the turbo reflash (be sure to specify you have the Hahn turbo). Also include shipping for the return or add $10 (per the OBD website). I mailed my ECU 8 days ago and it hasn't gotten back yet. I didn't buy extra insurance, but replacing the ECU isn't cheap and I wonder if I should have.

Noel Hughes wrote that they drill an old oil cap to accept an air fitting and then pressurize the oil pan to (hopefully) blow out any drill shavings. Don't forget to use lots of grease in the drill flutes once you get about halfway in. Also use lots of grease during the tapping process.

Another option is to contact Hahn about their pre-modded oil pan.It's $250 with $150 back when you send back your old oil pan. It also requires a different oil return line/connector and you need to swap the internal oil pan components from your old pan to the modded pan.

No need to drill the oil cap. I hooked up a tapered nozzle from my air compressor into the hose for the crankcase breather.

I also drained the oil after drilling and tapping the block and then stuck a long funnel in the hole and poured 5 quarts of used oil down it as a chaser to make sure all there were no shavings in the pan. Refilled with fresh oil, ran it for 20 or so miles and then changed the filter.

Quote from Garrett Taguchi

Also my friend said that the injectors looked stock... Are they the right injectors? He said he thought his were siemens, but he was gonna double check his setup tonight

They appear to be correct, not stock appearing at all really...but if you wish to message me the numbers on them, I'll verify for you.

Also, post or message me a pic of the MAP sensor that came with the kit, and I can verify that. Do you have the short adaptor harness as well?

Took a closer look at your pics...Injectors look good!