Ok... So is it necessary to pull the pan if I'm drilling the block? My friend with the Hahn set up didn't... He just put oil back in, ran it for a few min, drained, then filled it back up.. Hasn't had issues.
Just bought bill's used Hahn turbo... What else do I need to buy?
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@Bill Martin, what happened to the exhaust that went with that turbo?
@Garrett Taguchi is the proud new owner
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@Garrett Taguchi is the proud new owner
I wondered. He said "what else do I need," I was gonna ask if you got everything welded up correctly before he took it, lol.
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I wondered. He said "what else do I need," I was gonna ask if you got everything welded up correctly before he took it, lol.
From what u know, the exhaust is new.
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From what u know, the exhaust is new.
Never umboxed it straight from Bill Hahn himself !!! (Thanks Bill)
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From what u know, the exhaust is new.
Yeah, I know, I'm just busting his balls, because he had the new one shipped to me so I could hold it for him, but then we went over to DDM to get his old one welded up so he could run it, prior to him getting the supercharger. Hope your turbo and new exhaust work out for you.
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Ok... So is it necessary to pull the pan if I'm drilling the block? My friend with the Hahn set up didn't... He just put oil back in, ran it for a few min, drained, then filled it back up.. Hasn't had issues.
If I were to drill my block, I'd certainly want to pour some oil down thru the oil cap and I'd probably let it sit long enough to be sure it's just going to ruin out the oil drain opening before it has a chance to hopefully pick up any particles that did fall into the pan. The I'd drain it and refill with fresh oil before ever starting the engine. In my case, I had my 35000 mile service when I took my Slingshot to the dealer a few weeks ago to have my rear axle checked to see if the bearings were the source of the noise I was hearing. That oil only has around 1000 miles on it and could easily be used to flush the pan. Even is you have some oil that was drained during your last 5000 mile oil change, it should still be clean enough to use to flush the pan, especially if it's a synthetic.
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Yeah, I know, I'm just busting his balls, because he had the new one shipped to me so I could hold it for him, but then we went over to DDM to get his old one welded up so he could run it, prior to him getting the supercharger. Hope your turbo and new exhaust work out for you.
As if I need more ball bustin......have you met my bride
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Everthing from the system was removed and put in the boxes except maybe one item. Was there an oxygen sensor with it? I think Bill kept it on his for his AFR readout.
You will need to replace the exhaust manifold to Turbo mount studs and nuts because they are not in good shape. You will also need the fitting for your oil return line.
It would help if someone could do some detailed pictures for you.Where can I find turbo mount studs n nuts? And if u buy the pre tapped oil pan from Hahn, do I still need the fitting for the oil line?
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Where can I find turbo mount studs n nuts? And if u buy the pre tapped oil pan from Hahn, do I still need the fitting for the oil line?
I am pretty sure the oil line is in there ... but it is a short and a pain in the butt ... ask @Slingrazor
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Where can I find turbo mount studs n nuts? And if u buy the pre tapped oil pan from Hahn, do I still need the fitting for the oil line?
The studs and nuts for them are a common item that you can get at NAPA. When you lay everything out we can point them out. Just take them down to an autoparts store and the can match them for a couple of dollars. Use anti size on them when you install.
@rabtech is the best one to answer about the oil pan. -
If you don't have an air/fuel gauge, you'll need to get a fitting to plug the extra bung in the exhaust. But nobody with a turbo should run without the air/fuel gauge
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I can't believe @Bill Martin didn't throw in a free install with that gently used turbo...
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I can't believe @Bill Martin didn't throw in a free install with that gently used turbo...
I could but that woulda been a guaranteed blown engine
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Ok.. I re read it.. Seems he had previously removed and reinstalled with permatex... So my question is, do I need to buy a new gasket? Reuse the old one?
I plan on following Blitz' directions for removing the oil pan. The last time I pulled an oil pan was back in the late 1960s and engines still had oil pan gaskets (typically cork or something similar). Now I believe they just use a machine to apply RTV during the manufacturing process, so there is no cork/paper/metal gasket to remove or reuse. Just use Permatex Utra Black RTV sealant.
The stuff he tells you to scrape off is the old RTV that formed the gasket. The Ultra Black RTV is reportedly harder to remove than the older Black sealant. I asked at Auto Zone about RTV sealer remover and they looked at me like I had 2 heads. This link from Permatex lists their RTV remover products - Gasket Removers Archives - Permatex. In addition to chemical RTV removers, Permatex also offer s plastic scraper designed to minimize any damage to the surfaces you're trying to get clean. Personally, if I can find those products, I'd refer to use them. I'd also recommend making sure all remnants of the remover is cleaned off, just in case, using denatured alcohol as Blitz recommended. Here's an Amazon link to gasket removers and plastic sacraper blades - Amazon.com: permatex gasket remover: Automotive.Contact Hahn about the costs for the oil pan and oil return line, if needed. If @Bill Martin used the block return, the return line he used won't fit and a longer one with a different connector will be needed. The Hahn pre-modded pan also requires the transfer of the internal oil pan components before you return your oil pan for the rebate.
Make sure you understand the disassembly and install processes before you start. It's a lot better to ask questions before you get started. I've got my Slingshot disassembled and am in the final stages of making sure I understand what I need to do next (pulling the oil pan and getting it reinstalled.
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I plan on following Blitz' directions for removing the oil pan. The last time I pulled an oil pan was back in the late 1960s and engines still had oil pan gaskets (typically cork or something similar). Now I believe they just use a machine to apply RTV during the manufacturing process, so there is no cork/paper/metal gasket to remove or reuse. Just use Permatex Utra Black RTV sealant.The stuff he tells you to scrape off is the old RTV that formed the gasket. The Ultra Black RTV is reportedly harder to remove than the older Black sealant. I asked at Auto Zone about RTV sealer remover and they looked at me like I had 2 heads. This link from Permatex lists their RTV remover products - Gasket Removers Archives - Permatex. In addition to chemical RTV removers, Permatex also offer s plastic scraper designed to minimize any damage to the surfaces you're trying to get clean. Personally, if I can find those products, I'd refer to use them. I'd also recommend making sure all remnants of the remover is cleaned off, just in case, using denatured alcohol as Blitz recommended. Here's an Amazon link to gasket removers and plastic sacraper blades - Amazon.com: permatex gasket remover: Automotive.
Contact Hahn about the costs for the oil pan and oil return line, if needed. If @Bill Martin used the block return, the return line he used won't fit and a longer one with a different connector will be needed. The Hahn pre-modded pan also requires the transfer of the internal oil pan components before you return your oil pan for the rebate.
Make sure you understand the disassembly and install processes before you start. It's a lot better to ask questions before you get started. I've got my Slingshot disassembled and am in the final stages of making sure I understand what I need to do next (pulling the oil pan and getting it reinstalled.
YEAH - what he said
