In anticipation for when we get bigger and I lose track of members...post what you got! 
TURBOS ONLY
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HAHN RACECRAFT STAGE 2X
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Gang I have been running a grim speed manual boost controller since I went to alpha stage two. I know these things are sometimes frowned upon, but damn I love it! Absolutely worth the money for this little jewel. Looks great in the bay too.
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My Alpha 2 stage has been sitting on the floor of the spare bedroom for over 4 weeks while I wait to know if the power steering glitch can be fixed with an ECU update. I can't hold out much longer. I need all the practice I can get before the first leg of Slingshots across America.
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If you want I could pay shipping and install it to get it broke in for you and give you an unbiased opinion.
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I did have a JonV in there.
Does that count? -
I just realized when you click on a photo you can scroll through all the photos in the thread. Pretty cool.
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Gang I have been running a grim speed manual boost controller since I went to alpha stage two. I know these things are sometimes frowned upon, but damn I love it! Absolutely worth the money for this little jewel. Looks great in the bay too.
Why are manual boost controller's frowned upon? Are you using it in addition to the wastegate or instead of?
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@Turbosling frowns upon them as it is one more item that could mess up. He may have more reasons, but that's what I know.
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HAHN RACECRAFT STAGE 2X
@kenny_h whose turbo do you have in your sling??
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I have the unpredictable LE9 eater JonV (small fin) Turbo Kit, and when I blow the 2nd engine I'm going V8!
It's been tamed down to 2-3lbs boost with the baffle in and a 4.26lb green spring in the wastegate, 2bar map with MEFI Bob's current tune. -
Hahn Stage 2
Side Exhaust -
OK, y'all forced my hand..... Let me dig up some phot
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That is down right SEXY!
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Well, too sad hes gone now, still think this is one of the best turbo setup for a built engine to deal with the boost creep, but yeah, Vmount JonV kit ftw
Right now, engine is torn down to beef it up to hold 14psi of boost. Using 2.2L Eagle forged rods, Wiseco custom made pistons, SS Valves, stiffer valve springs, and held by ARP head studs.
Port and polish head passages:
Before:
After:
Semi polished the combustion chambers (removed high spots of casting and sanded off any rough edges):
Looks nice and shny
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That is sexy. I am doing something similar. I'll be watching your pics.
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Very nice work sir - I have a build on my wish list, but I think it best for now to live my dreams thru you!
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slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/347/slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/347/
Gotta show you the Alpha St 2 turbo. I kept the boost at 6 lbs.
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Very nice work sir - I have a build on my wish list, but I think it best for now to live my dreams thru you!
If we're all worried about greenhouse gasses, we better not have lunch at the Bush Baked Bean cafe in Maggie Valley
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That is sexy. I am doing something similar. I'll be watching your pics.
Thanks, nice words coming from you
I'll list all the work and parts needed once I get it working again. The complicated part is the custom pistons because we are using the 2.2 rods. Le9 rods are uberexpensive so overall its less money to do it that way, but Wiseco wants to get lots of mesurements that need special tools to do (bore size to 0.001 inch, deck height to 0.001 inch and so on) so There has been some downtime waiting for those tools to ship. Lots of learning in this project.
Very nice work sir - I have a build on my wish list, but I think it best for now to live my dreams thru you!
once I get all the measurements done, the expense to actually do this is mostly time.
Porting the head has taken me over 30 hours to do, using a 100$ dremel and 100$ of sanding barels. I purchased a burr for my drill to take off the flash from the head, that cost 40$. The actual cost is not high if you do it yourself. Overall the head work will have cost me maybe 350$ max calculating the milllion towels, carb cleaner, valve removal tool, new valve seals etc. Not so bad.
If you only want to replace the pistons and rods, you don't need to do all this disasembly: once you have unbolted the head from the engine and taken off the head bolts and camshaft sprokets, reinstall the valve cover right away so nothing gets in the valve train, and keep the head facing down to remove gasket material from the metal. Once you are done, wrap the head in saran wrap so nothing get inside the oil and water passages. Then do the work for the rods and pistons, and reinstall the head back in its place.
