This is a picture of the hole between the Infotainment cubby in the center of the dash and the hole into the engine compartment.
Slingshotonly briefly had a 3-pc heatwall that provided insulation between the engine compartment and the dash area. It's installation required disassembling pretty much the entire dash area along with the glove-box and removal of the instrument panel. The picture shows the main area where most of the heat gets in. Their installation video shows the cable bundle marked by the White arrow lifted up and re-positioned on the engine side of the support struts and screws indicated by the Pink arrows. Re-positioning this cable bundle gives a much flatter and cleaner area for trying to seal off the Infotainment cubby area from engine compartment heat.
I'm trying to avoid the level of disassembly involved in the Slingshotonly Heatwall installation video and am hoping that by removing the various screws/bolts attaching the top of the dash behind where the hood meets the dash will allow me to re-position the cable bundle w/o disassembling/removing the entire dash, glove-box and instrument panel.
Has anyone re-positioned the cable bundle w/o totally disassembling the entire front area of the cockpit? It will probably be easier just to use a sheet of self-adhesive insulation to cover the cable bundle, but it will look better if the cable bundle can be re-positioned.
Cable Bundle in way of clean insulation of Infotainment cubby area
-
I know exactly what your trying to do. I dont think your going to get enough slack without laying under the slingshot and reaching up around the transmission and cutting 4 zip ties. You can get to them through the radio hole but your going to end up pulling all the wires off your traction control button and your other switches. That loom splits off inside the radio area and also continues over to the ECM. So to get the slack to raise it up you have to cut a bunch of zip ties like I mentioned above. It's easier just to remove the top of the dash and do it once and then you will have a smooth hole to cover with dynamat or whatever you use.
-
@rabtech, Thanks. That's what I feared. In the CS video, they just lift the cable bundle over the top of the support strut, but by that ppoint, IIRC, they have totally removed the dash top, glove-box and instrument console. Will probably try later today. Temp was 45F when I got up at 0730 to wait for yard guy. I don't usually go to bed until between 0200 and then read until around 0400-0500, so I don't usually get up until noonish when it's warmer!
0730 is too early to function w/o cause! -
@rabtech, BTW, I noticed that you had mentioned considering Nitto Motivo tires awhile back over on TDS but bought another brand that was in stock at your dealer. Did you have previous experience with the Motivos?
I'm considering the Motivos for my Base Slingshot once I get my Hahn turbo installed. The Motivos have almost the same ratings as the Nitto 555 G2s except the Motivos are rated higher for wet traction and the G2s are rated higher for dry traction. Given the Slingshot's lightweight, I'm thinking the Motivos might be a better choice since they have a longer tread-life rating and better resistance to hydroplaning from what I've read.Just noticed your question... No. I don't have any experience with the Motivos. I bought the Toyo Proxy 4 tires and they were way to hard. If someone was looking for high mileage.those would be great. I went back to the Nitto 555 G2 in the back. Still trying to kill the Toyo's up front.
