What was today's Sling project-Mods , goodies.....?

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    • Blaze wrote:

      I think those that are posting HP #s above 300hp also have had the motors rebuilt with better internals. I wonder what the true cost of having a 400+ hp SS is? Because, at that point it is just a number. You can't plant that kind of HP to the ground with the light rear ends that the SS has.
      Blaze, to put in dollars and sense (cents), plan in the neighborhood of $10K and you'll have yourself boosted (s/c or turbo), new clutch assembly, stronger block with forged internals, new exhaust and reprogrammed ecu tuning that will be able to safely reach those numbers. Again, that's a ballpark estimate as ceramic coating, powder coating, choice of boosting, choice of exhaust with header or no header etc will ultimately decide the final costs. Hope this helps you understand that how many horsepower you want is a matter of how much you're willing to spend
      If your carpet has to match the drapes,
      shouldn't your trailer match your Slingshot?
    • SlingRider wrote:

      @mytoy have you or are you thinking of making a cap for the DDM coolant tank?
      Yes that will be my next project after they take of a little. It is just money. :00007983: :00007956:
      Do not resent growing old. Many are denied.... The Privilege :REDSS: :SUPERCHARGERSS: : :HEADERSS: : :COILOVERSS: Wycket hitch
      mytoy-toy.us

      The post was edited 1 time, last by mytoy ().

    • edwardaneal wrote:

      Br4hm4 wrote:

      Slingrazor wrote:

      Blaze wrote:

      I think those that are posting HP #s above 300hp also have had the motors rebuilt with better internals. I wonder what the true cost of having a 400+ hp SS is? Because, at that point it is just a number. You can't plant that kind of HP to the ground with the light rear ends that the SS has.
      I have been running north of 300 on an unforged motor for over a year. If the motor goes it will cost the same for the new one minus a core charge. Why pay for it before you need it.Knock on wood.
      I have gone just over 7K miles on my stock motor with the Hahn Turbo kit. Well...Stock everything really. I think once you start pushing over 350HP it might be time to looking at upgrading. I have already decided that if I blow up the motor, I am going to go with a boosted 13B rotary engine.
      so, just out of curiosity, are there any stronger options to the stock angle drive? some time back I thought I saw a thread that implied that someone was working on such a thing, but I never saw anymore about it?
      Yes there is an upgraded billet aluminum one in the works from @oneshot.
    • paulj wrote:

      MACAWS wrote:

      Ghost wrote:

      paulj wrote:

      I have a question and if it has already been asked and answered I'm sorry in advance..........I have been reading about turbos and superchargers and seeing some crazy HP numbers...........Is this still running the stock driveline ??
      I would say for the most part "yes". I believe with the exception of the clutch and flywheel most everyone is running stock driveline components.
      The only thing we did was to go to DDM forged motor
      So then the stock driveline..trans...angle drive etc should be able to handle the stock 170 + hp easily.......I just wonder after hearing and seeing exploded angle drives and the swing arm bearing debacle...............everytime I hear mine make a squeak I get paranoid.......guess maybe I worry to much
      There are plenty of us out there beating up the stock driveline with little issue. If you look at the amount sold versus failures I think the percentage is small. Many of the recalls were from the earlier models. Polaris built them and w did the stress testing. With any performance vehicle people will push them to the limits and sometimes they push back.
      MOE MONEY - MOE MODS
      :GRAYSS:
      LONE WOLF
    • MACAWS wrote:

      paulj wrote:

      MACAWS wrote:

      Ghost wrote:

      paulj wrote:

      I have a question and if it has already been asked and answered I'm sorry in advance..........I have been reading about turbos and superchargers and seeing some crazy HP numbers...........Is this still running the stock driveline ??
      I would say for the most part "yes". I believe with the exception of the clutch and flywheel most everyone is running stock driveline components.
      The only thing we did was to go to DDM forged motor
      So then the stock driveline..trans...angle drive etc should be able to handle the stock 170 + hp easily.......I just wonder after hearing and seeing exploded angle drives and the swing arm bearing debacle...............everytime I hear mine make a squeak I get paranoid.......guess maybe I worry to much
      There are plenty of us out there beating up the stock driveline with little issue. If you look at the amount sold versus failures I think the percentage is small. Many of the recalls were from the earlier models. Polaris built them and w did the stress testing. With any performance vehicle people will push them to the limits and sometimes they push back.
      Put the customer in charge of R&D and hope for the best
      :SILVERSS: :POKESS: :00000022: :evil: :00000021:
    • Bigdog wrote:

      mytoy wrote:

      The prototypes are done for the brake and clutch reservoir cover. I put them on my SS so everyone can see them in MV.
      The blue I have to redo I did not wait long enough between coats.
      Bevore:
      After:

      Looks good, what are you using for a gasket?
      It is a cover.
      Do not resent growing old. Many are denied.... The Privilege :REDSS: :SUPERCHARGERSS: : :HEADERSS: : :COILOVERSS: Wycket hitch
      mytoy-toy.us
    • Br4hm4 wrote:

      Slingrazor wrote:

      Blaze wrote:

      I think those that are posting HP #s above 300hp also have had the motors rebuilt with better internals. I wonder what the true cost of having a 400+ hp SS is? Because, at that point it is just a number. You can't plant that kind of HP to the ground with the light rear ends that the SS has.
      I have been running north of 300 on an unforged motor for over a year. If the motor goes it will cost the same for the new one minus a core charge. Why pay for it before you need it.Knock on wood.
      I have gone just over 7K miles on my stock motor with the Hahn Turbo kit. Well...Stock everything really. I think once you start pushing over 350HP it might be time to looking at upgrading. I have already decided that if I blow up the motor, I am going to go with a boosted 13B rotary engine.
      I agree with driving it hard until it blows up like others have talked about. At higher altitudes, it is a lot harder to hurt a motor because you build less boost.

      Your 13B comment has be laughing! ;) Why would you want to lose all of the nannies, cruise, and have to pre-mix at every fuel fill up?! The sound is only great if you have a an aggressive port or a 3-rotor setup. Rotaries are cool, but dang that would be a lot of work for very few positives. You would also need to start vaping. ;)

      Here is my old setup with a Garret single turbo v-mount setup. New guy bought it and messed with the electronic boost controller and wrecked the seals. Fun, fun....

      Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D
    • TravAZ wrote:

      I agree with driving it hard until it blows up like others have talked about. At higher altitudes, it is a lot harder to hurt a motor because you build less boost.
      Your 13B comment has be laughing! ;) Why would you want to lose all of the nannies, cruise, and have to pre-mix at every fuel fill up?! The sound is only great if you have a an aggressive port or a 3-rotor setup. Rotaries are cool, but dang that would be a lot of work for very few positives. You would also need to start vaping. ;)

      Here is my old setup with a Garret single turbo v-mount setup. New guy bought it and messed with the electronic boost controller and wrecked the seals. Fun, fun....


      Whoa whoa whoa...I said Rotary...I didn't say anything about STi's.... Those are the vapers with flat billed hats! lol
      CO D12
    • The early Ecotec 2.4L motors (pre-2009 or so) had forged rods, but the later models saved money using cast rods. The rods in our Slingshot are good for about 75 HP per rod, meaning if you stay around 300 HP (at the flywheel) you will hopefully be OK. Going any higher will probably eventually result in a damaged motor.
      I installed my Hahn Stage 2/2X turbo kit using the Stage 2 settings. Per Hahn's website (SST TurboSystem Stage 2/2X, Slingshot – Hahn RaceCraft), a Stage 2X system should be around 275 HP at the rear wheel. Can't remember where I read it, but, IIRC, a Stage 2 system should be somewhere around 230-240 HP, which I hope should still be comfortably within the safe range for the engine components. I had just under 36K miles on my engine when I installed the turbo and I've since put another 4000 miles on it in the last 3.5 months. The most boost I typically see is in the 4-6 lbs range and only rarely see boost much above that. The Stage 2X is achieved with a slightly different vacuum line routing and can provide a couple more lbs boost, IIRC.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by BKL ().

    • All tbese assumptuins if what HP a 2.4 ECO can take. Reality, there have been 250 to 275 HP un forged motors that have blown, 350 HP forged motors that have blown, and 375 HP un forged motors that jave not blown. In the failures we have seen a pretty even spread of fail do to the casing, pistons from grapes steam and hot oil, map sensors, getting into the boost in to low if an RPM (TC not SC), running to low of a fuel level or low octane, and some connecting rods. To say the motor un forged is only as good at a given HP is hypothetical, it should not be stated as fact. As I have said previously, I am around 315 Rear Wheel HP at 9.5 psi. I bounce the rev limiter all the time and have 20,000 niles on it. That would put my crank around 350. Using 75 HP per rod I should have theoretically blown my motor 10 times over by now, Nd the forgered motors at 450 HP should have never failed
      Sorry about the post, I just like it when we use proven information.
    • Slingrazor wrote:

      All tbese assumptuins if what HP a 2.4 ECO can take. Reality, there have been 250 to 275 HP un forged motors that have blown, 350 HP forged motors that have blown, and 375 HP un forged motors that jave not blown. In the failures we have seen a pretty even spread of fail do to the casing, pistons from grapes steam and hot oil, map sensors, getting into the boost in to low if an RPM (TC not SC), running to low of a fuel level or low octane, and some connecting rods. To say the motor un forged is only as good at a given HP is hypothetical, it should not be stated as fact. As I have said previously, I am around 315 Rear Wheel HP at 9.5 psi. I bounce the rev limiter all the time and have 20,000 niles on it. That would put my crank around 350. Using 75 HP per rod I should have theoretically blown my motor 10 times over by now, Nd the forgered motors at 450 HP should have never failed
      Sorry about the post, I just like it when we use proven information.
      Not trying to provoke a pissing contest here. You've obviously been lucky in that other folks have had their engines go BOOM under similar conditions. Someone posted why worry about getting a built motor until you actually know it's needed (I'm too lazy to try and find the post and can't even remember which forum I read it on). I am fully aware of failures at very low boost/HP conditions and feel fortunate that I haven't yet detonated my motor. I made the conscious decision to try and play it as safely as possible to hopefully reduce/avoid the possibility of damaging my engine, but I fully understand that even Stage 2 or even Stage 1 boost levels might result in problems. I simply chose to set up my system a little more conservatively. My comment about the 75 HP/cylinder is, I assume, based on the aggregated experience of many users who may or may not have experienced engine problems after adding boost. The folks offering SCs or TCs typically recommend going with a built motor when boosting to HP levels over 300 or so. Hahn advertises achieving 316 HP engine HP with their Stage 2X configuration which would still seem to be relatively close to the 300 HP recommendation. Any use of boost can be a crap-shoot, but the weakness of the non-forged rods is a known weak spot with the Ecotec in boosted applications and can be found posted in many places on the web, so it must be true! ;)
      I'm sure some engine problems are associated with air getting trapped in high spots in the engine block and causing over-heating leading to failures, for example. DDM Works has commented on the lack of reinforcement between the engine cylinders and the top of the block as a source of potential trouble. Under normal operating conditions, the Ecotec 2.4L motor is very reliable, but add boost and many potential problems can arise. Motors not designed for boost can experience problems when boosted, whether the cause is engine design or operator error.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by BKL ().

    • Choose your desired HP Mr. Slingshot Guy! ;)



      Way too many variables in blown up motors and why they actually failed. With that being said, for the turbo kits being produced, 300hp (75hp per cylinder) is probably pretty decent advice. People need to remember that peak hp is only 1 very small number in a dyno graph. Superchargers and Turbochargers build boost very differently and this shows clearly on dyno graphs. SC make great power, but they make them in smaller portions of the powerband and up in high RPMs where the SS motor is less likely to break. Turbos build boost much earlier in the RPM range, but can be very hard motors if you are at a boost level on the slippery edge.

      This video from this point does a pretty decent job in talking about how these two setup build boost differently... Sorry for re-posting, but I assume some people missed this good video.


      I have never seen/heard of a (correctly installed) turbo Slingshot blow up in the high RPM range. They usually blow because they are making 8-10 lbs of boost lower in the RPM range and the person is driving through detonation. This can cause rings gaps to touch and pistons to snap pieces off, which leads to even more damage like rods through the block, and destroyed heads. If you are really lucky, you will be like me and the piston will break below the bottom ring and go directly into the pan. Yay! :/

      The biggest difference in why some TC engines survive and why some don't are...
      1. Fuel quality - 93 gas in FL is very different than 91 gas in western states like AZ
      2. Altitude - as you go up in elevation, you make less boost and it is safer (where my first gen JohnV kits at?!)
      3. Heat - How hot is your motor and air intake temps? 115 degrees in AZ while doing burnouts isn't very good for engines
      4. Install / Parts - user error of installing parts or parts going bad like MAP sensors or injectors (you don't want to know how many people have blown motor because the wastegate wasn't hooked up correctly to manage boost)
      5. Driving Habits - If you have the wrong combo of the above, you will likely get detonation. When you drive through it, knowing or not knowing, you are much more likely to blow an engine. When you hear crinkling tinfoil, get out of boost right away. A lot of people can't hear this noise because of loud exhaust, or don't know what it is and the harm they are doing.
      6. Luck of the draw with quality of OEM engine - maybe this should be higher...

      Long story short, I agree with both @BKL and @Slingrazor. There really isn't a true guide that should be followed, but on TC machines I still like the 75hp per cylinder advice.

      Backstory of my experiences with blown engines....
      My stock motor blew up around 12 psi while intentionally driving through detonation during a tuning session. Sacrificed that beautiful soul in the efforts to improve the turbo tunes for all. My 1st built forged motor blew up because it always ran like crap above 5,800 RPMs. After changing every variable on the machine around the motor, it finally let go while driving hard through the issue. It would appear (my best guess) that my timing was set 1 tooth off during final assembly. The new built forged motor runs great, but doesn't like crap AZ 91 fuel above 10psi. On track days, I now run 95 or 101 octane and turn the boost controller up to around 15 psi. It is a monster on good fuel and boost above 14psi.
      Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D

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