Making your current rear Spoiler/Wing motorized adjustable - using linear actuators

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    • Making your current rear Spoiler/Wing motorized adjustable - using linear actuators

      Let me start by saying this is not a normal MOD that is going to benefit your SS with 50hp gains. Nor is it practical...it's much more of a nice to have / cool factor MOD that could benefit you at speeds of greater than 75mph on a track or open road.

      My idea was to make it easy to adjust the spoiler for a little more down-force on the rear tire at higher speeds and "possible" better airflow while cornering on the track.

      Please understand that the spoiler on my SS...I installed it about 1 year ago and if your starting from scratch...this will not be as simple. This is meant for anyone who has one installed already - sorry. With that said, the same principals could be applied to a new spoiler/wing installation for the automation portion, I just don't cover the installation of the spoiler in this thread.

      I started off with a spoiler that has the ability to be adjusted using its existing hardware mounts. These type of mounts give you about 1" inch of angle adjustment. The adjustment is gained by using the elongated slot that provides the angle you desire on each of the "leg brackets". (See Pics)
      Keeping in mind the linear actuators are being attached to these "leg brackets" so that it gives it a clean and finished look. The actuators I am using only have a pushing force of 4.5lbs each....about 9lbs total. To lift the spoiler it only takes my index finger when the spoiler is loose and in the "hinged" position. So the 9lbs of lift force should be plenty for this application.


      What's needed:
      Ace Hardware trip: I took one of the screw and nut off the spoilers hardware and visited Ace Hardware to gain a longer screws and locking nylon nuts. Purchased (4) longer screws, (10) washers and (4) locking nylon nuts. The size I purchase was a thread of M4 the length was 2" inch. Keep in mind the holes inside the Linear actuators are slightly smaller - so you have to get screws that will go through the spoiler brackets and the linear actuator eyelet. So it's best to take the screw from the spoiler/wing hardware and the actuator with you. This way you get exactly the right fit.

      (2) Linear 1" actuators https://micromechtronic.com/product/morai-motion-inline-nexus-micro-linear-actuator/

      (1) DPDT Switchhttps://www.amazon.com/Amp-DPDT-Off-Rocker-Switch/dp/B001PNMC52/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477740931&sr=sr-1&keywords=dpdt+switch

      (20) feet of 1/4" wire loom https://www.amazon.com/American-Terminal-SL250-100-4-Inch-Tubing/dp/B001762LIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477740449&sr=8-1&keywords=1+4+wire+split+loom

      (1) 10 amp fuse holder/and fuse)

      (15ft) extra wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154MAECC/ref=pd_luc_rh_sbs_03_02_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

      OR... OR...OR

      (Wiring Kit for dummies like me - this is a brainless Linear Actuator switch kit made simple) This kit has everything and its pre-wired. Idiot proof for me. This kit eliminates the switch and relay I mention earlier and comes pre-wired with switch/relay.
      https://www.amazon.com/MPC-0462-Linear-Actuators-Wiring/dp/B00LON21DQ/ref=pd_lutyp_simh_1_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LON21DQ&pd_rd_r=A8XZE1AB2B8WD25PT27A&pd_rd_w=iMn6S&pd_rd_wg=fidWR&psc=1&refRID=A8XZE1AB2B8WD25PT27A
      Also needed heat shrink, electrical tape, soldering iron/wire and heat gun

      INSTALLATION:
      You will need to remove the screws and drop down the rear bottom plastic that is above the SS deck. This will allow you to gain access for the wiring and see where you will be drilling the holes to wire the linear actuators.

      Adding two small linear actuators - one to each side of the leg bracket will give you that quick adjustment. In my case, I had already installed the spoiler and only need to remove the rear nut and screw from the elongated slot and replace them with a 2" screw for the actuator to be affixed - and I used locking nylon nuts so they will move freely yet not back off and come loose.

      These linear actuators come with a top and bottom eyelet for mounting the actuator and the top eyelet is used to mount whatever your looking to place "in motion". In this case it's our spoiler/wing that will be in motion and the linear actuator will be mounted to the bracket of the spoilers legs.

      The pivot point is being provided by the top eyelet of the linear actuator pushing the bracket up to 1 inch of the elongated slot.

      The linear actuator should be in a CLOSED position when you start to attach the longer screws. On the spoiler hardware/bracket, remove the lower adjustment screw that allow for angle adjustment - this is the screw that is inside the elongated slot. Install the longer screw with one washer and place the actuator on the inside to help hide and conceal it. The longer screw will go through the hardware and through the eyelet top of the linear actuator. Now attach the washer and locking nylon nut. (please notice my pics, I used washers on both sides of the actuator eyelet). Keep your bolts just hand snug - do not tighten yet. (Make sure your spoiler is exactly the same height on both sides) You will need to mark the hole at the bottom of the eyelet actuator that is to be affixed to the spoiler leg. Using a pencil or scratch, mark the hole you will drill on the bracket. (I used 1/4" bit for the hole). Now your ready to attach the bottom of the linear actuator using one screw, two washers and one more nylon locking nut. Repeat this process to the opposite side and your done with the hardware portion.

      WIRING THE LINEAR ACTUATORS:
      I wanted to hide the wires as much as possible...my idea is to drill my holes through the inner side feet of the base brackets. In my case I drilled the feet at an angle trying to get the hole as close to the Mounting Hole of the base as I possible could. (Before drilling ensure you have checked the underside so you do NOT mistakenly cut other wires) Using a 1/4" bit, I drilled through and placed the wires through a grommet and wire loom. Combine both red and black wires of each actuator by soldering - add more wire/longer length that will be your main wire to your switch that will be up front. Use wire loom and run the wire from the rear to the front.
      Guide the wire toward the center dash because that's where the switch may go. From this point...its simply using this simple kit: https://www.amazon.com/MPC-0462-Linear-Actuators-Wiring/dp/B00LON21DQ/ref=pd_lutyp_simh_1_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LON21DQ&pd_rd_r=A8XZE1AB2B8WD25PT27A&pd_rd_w=iMn6S&pd_rd_wg=fidWR&psc=1&refRID=A8XZE1AB2B8WD25PT27A

      Now for the more genius of the world like my brother @WraithSS and Wolf Pack brother @TheRock you can do old school and wire the relay/switch from scratch - totally out of my league and I must watch a tutorial every time I grab the electrical tape and soldering iron.

      A video to show you how:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZtAR5oJktc

      Now - you can kick this install up a few notches by adding the speed sensor to it...programing this to turn at an angle when you reach a certain MPH like the Porsche and other super sport cars that have that ability: http://www.slingmods.com/arboreal-systems-neutrino-black-box-smartphone-bluetooth-controlled-power-distribution-box-polaris-slingshot

      Enjoy!!!

      I hope this helps. If I can be of assistance just send me a PM

      LRobbi - SHOT

      Images
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      Lrobbi - RShotAccessories.com





      :D

      L R-SHOT
      - YouTube

      WE WERE ALL HUMANS UNTIL
      RACE DISCONNECTED US,
      RELIGION SEPERATED US,
      POLITICS DIVIDED US,
      AND WEALTH CLASSIFIED US.
    • lrobbi wrote:

      Let me start by saying this is not a normal MOD that is going to benefit your SS with 50hp gains. Nor is it practical...it's much more of a nice to have / cool factor MOD that could benefit you at speeds of greater than 75mph on a track or open road.

      My idea was to make it easy to adjust the spoiler for a little more down-force on the rear tire at higher speeds and "possible" better airflow while cornering on the track.

      Please understand that the spoiler on my SS...I installed it about 1 year ago and if your starting from scratch...this will not be as simple. This is meant for anyone who has one installed already - sorry. With that said, the same principals could be applied to a new spoiler/wing installation for the automation portion, I just don't cover the installation of the spoiler in this thread.

      I started off with a spoiler that has the ability to be adjusted using its existing hardware mounts. These type of mounts give you about 1" inch of angle adjustment. The adjustment is gained by using the elongated slot that provides the angle you desire on each of the "leg brackets". (See Pics)
      Keeping in mind the linear actuators are being attached to these "leg brackets" so that it gives it a clean and finished look. The actuators I am using only have a pushing force of 4.5lbs each....about 9lbs total. To lift the spoiler it only takes my index finger when the spoiler is loose and in the "hinged" position. So the 9lbs of lift force should be plenty for this application.


      What's needed:
      Ace Hardware trip: I took one of the screw and nut off the spoilers hardware and visited Ace Hardware to gain a longer screws and locking nylon nuts. Purchased (4) longer screws, (10) washers and (4) locking nylon nuts. The size I purchase was a thread of M4 the length was 2" inch. Keep in mind the holes inside the Linear actuators are slightly smaller - so you have to get screws that will go through the spoiler brackets and the linear actuator eyelet. So it's best to take the screw from the spoiler/wing hardware and the actuator with you. This way you get exactly the right fit.

      (2) Linear 1" actuators https://micromechtronic.com/product/morai-motion-inline-nexus-micro-linear-actuator/

      (1) DPDT Switchhttps://www.amazon.com/Amp-DPDT-Off-Rocker-Switch/dp/B001PNMC52/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477740931&sr=sr-1&keywords=dpdt+switch

      (20) feet of 1/4" wire loom https://www.amazon.com/American-Terminal-SL250-100-4-Inch-Tubing/dp/B001762LIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477740449&sr=8-1&keywords=1+4+wire+split+loom

      (1) 10 amp fuse holder/and fuse)

      (15ft) extra wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154MAECC/ref=pd_luc_rh_sbs_03_02_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

      OR... OR...OR

      (Wiring Kit for dummies like me - this is a brainless Linear Actuator switch kit made simple) This kit has everything and its pre-wired. Idiot proof for me. This kit eliminates the switch and relay I mention earlier and comes pre-wired with switch/relay.
      https://www.amazon.com/MPC-0462-Linear-Actuators-Wiring/dp/B00LON21DQ/ref=pd_lutyp_simh_1_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LON21DQ&pd_rd_r=A8XZE1AB2B8WD25PT27A&pd_rd_w=iMn6S&pd_rd_wg=fidWR&psc=1&refRID=A8XZE1AB2B8WD25PT27A
      Also needed heat shrink, electrical tape, soldering iron/wire and heat gun

      INSTALLATION:
      You will need to remove the screws and drop down the rear bottom plastic that is above the SS deck. This will allow you to gain access for the wiring and see where you will be drilling the holes to wire the linear actuators.

      Adding two small linear actuators - one to each side of the leg bracket will give you that quick adjustment. In my case, I had already installed the spoiler and only need to remove the rear nut and screw from the elongated slot and replace them with a 2" screw for the actuator to be affixed - and I used locking nylon nuts so they will move freely yet not back off and come loose.

      These linear actuators come with a top and bottom eyelet for mounting the actuator and the top eyelet is used to mount whatever your looking to place "in motion". In this case it's our spoiler/wing that will be in motion and the linear actuator will be mounted to the bracket of the spoilers legs.

      The pivot point is being provided by the top eyelet of the linear actuator pushing the bracket up to 1 inch of the elongated slot.

      The linear actuator should be in a CLOSED position when you start to attach the longer screws. On the spoiler hardware/bracket, remove the lower adjustment screw that allow for angle adjustment - this is the screw that is inside the elongated slot. Install the longer screw with one washer and place the actuator on the inside to help hide and conceal it. The longer screw will go through the hardware and through the eyelet top of the linear actuator. Now attach the washer and locking nylon nut. (please notice my pics, I used washers on both sides of the actuator eyelet). Keep your bolts just hand snug - do not tighten yet. (Make sure your spoiler is exactly the same height on both sides) You will need to mark the hole at the bottom of the eyelet actuator that is to be affixed to the spoiler leg. Using a pencil or scratch, mark the hole you will drill on the bracket. (I used 1/4" bit for the hole). Now your ready to attach the bottom of the linear actuator using one screw, two washers and one more nylon locking nut. Repeat this process to the opposite side and your done with the hardware portion.

      WIRING THE LINEAR ACTUATORS:
      I wanted to hide the wires as much as possible...my idea is to drill my holes through the inner side feet of the base brackets. In my case I drilled the feet at an angle trying to get the hole as close to the Mounting Hole of the base as I possible could. (Before drilling ensure you have checked the underside so you do NOT mistakenly cut other wires) Using a 1/4" bit, I drilled through and placed the wires through a grommet and wire loom. Combine both red and black wires of each actuator by soldering - add more wire/longer length that will be your main wire to your switch that will be up front. Use wire loom and run the wire from the rear to the front.
      Guide the wire toward the center dash because that's where the switch may go. From this point...its simply using this simple kit: https://www.amazon.com/MPC-0462-Linear-Actuators-Wiring/dp/B00LON21DQ/ref=pd_lutyp_simh_1_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LON21DQ&pd_rd_r=A8XZE1AB2B8WD25PT27A&pd_rd_w=iMn6S&pd_rd_wg=fidWR&psc=1&refRID=A8XZE1AB2B8WD25PT27A

      Now for the more genius of the world like my brother @WraithSS and Wolf Pack brother @TheRock you can do old school and wire the relay/switch from scratch - totally out of my league and I must watch a tutorial every time I grab the electrical tape and soldering iron.

      A video to show you how:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZtAR5oJktc

      Now - you can kick this install up a few notches by adding the speed sensor to it...programing this to turn at an angle when you reach a certain MPH like the Porsche and other super sport cars that have that ability: http://www.slingmods.com/arboreal-systems-neutrino-black-box-smartphone-bluetooth-controlled-power-distribution-box-polaris-slingshot

      Enjoy!!!

      I hope this helps. If I can be of assistance just send me a PM

      LRobbi - SHOT


      Damn. If we could only get you, Rabtech, Painter, Henry (from Alpha) and Noel to run Polaris, we'd have one BITCHIN RIDE


      All that talent could have gone to waste if you guys were Harley dudes. We're lucky to have you here to educate us daily
      If your carpet has to match the drapes,
      shouldn't your trailer match your Slingshot?
    • Fantastic Mod......and Fantastic instructional write-up!!!
      The above posters have already said all there is to say better than I can, so......nothing left for you to do but drop the mic and walk off stage @lrobbi :00007555: :00007555:
      Those who will give up essential liberty to secure a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety

      2016 Slingshot SL Vin# 8855 (born in September 2015) w/ Alpha Stage 2 Turbo @ 7.5psi
    • roadog1aj wrote:

      Fantastic Mod......and Fantastic instructional write-up!!!
      The above posters have already said all there is to say better than I can, so......nothing left for you to do but drop the mic and walk off stage @lrobbi :00007555: :00007555:
      Thanks brother - I appreciated it!
      Lrobbi - RShotAccessories.com





      :D

      L R-SHOT
      - YouTube

      WE WERE ALL HUMANS UNTIL
      RACE DISCONNECTED US,
      RELIGION SEPERATED US,
      POLITICS DIVIDED US,
      AND WEALTH CLASSIFIED US.
    • That is so cool. I just found a carbon fiber spoiler for $200. Have some install info but could always use advice. Adding this would be great during install.
      Hope I can call on you for future install advice.
      Great job and look forward to your next adventure.
    • DarkSquid wrote:

      That is so cool. I just found a carbon fiber spoiler for $200. Have some install info but could always use advice. Adding this would be great during install.
      Hope I can call on you for future install advice.
      Great job and look forward to your next adventure.

      Ruptured Duck wrote:

      do like this MOD a LOT.... I have wanted to have some type of active system tied into speed as well as braking. The SlingShot screams for air brakes...
      Need to go over your steps and see how I might be able to apply it to some of my current designs as well as future stuff...
      Very cool @lrobbi.
      Thanks guys. @DarkSquid PM sent.

      @Raptured Duck ... I know you got some serious skills - this will be done in your sleep. :thumbsup:
      Lrobbi - RShotAccessories.com





      :D

      L R-SHOT
      - YouTube

      WE WERE ALL HUMANS UNTIL
      RACE DISCONNECTED US,
      RELIGION SEPERATED US,
      POLITICS DIVIDED US,
      AND WEALTH CLASSIFIED US.
    • Ruptured Duck wrote:

      have an idea in my head that might get this treatment.... ^^
      It will be a spoiler/wing that also doubles as an air brake when the brakes are applied.

      More than likely will be all show but should be cool to watch on the Twisties... :thumbsup:
      :BLUESS:
      Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do.
      ~Mark Twain~
    • pigmanfu wrote:

      This is how every mod should be wrote up, better than most professional mod installs (m
      By far)
      Thanks brother... I want to do the instructions on this front grill thing soon as I have time. @KayTwo and @DKF Texas expressed interest a while back. Or I just will make the brackets for others to fit there grill choice in.
      Lrobbi - RShotAccessories.com





      :D

      L R-SHOT
      - YouTube

      WE WERE ALL HUMANS UNTIL
      RACE DISCONNECTED US,
      RELIGION SEPERATED US,
      POLITICS DIVIDED US,
      AND WEALTH CLASSIFIED US.
    • roadog1aj wrote:

      Fantastic Mod......and Fantastic instructional write-up!!!
      The above posters have already said all there is to say better than I can, so......nothing left for you to do but drop the mic and walk off stage
      Couldn't say it better! @lrobbi, I'm surprised I only just found this recently. Everything is on point, your mod, instructions and photo/video documentation.

      How is it working these days since the installation?

      Would you mind if I share this around our social channels? We love showing off what others have done - especially work of such high quality :thumbup:
    • That is pretty cool. What would it take to flip that straight down or up so that when the brakes come on and stay on for over 2 seconds the wing would be useful for braking?.I would be all over a wing if it moved a bit more.

      But that is bad ass @lrobbi no kidding....

      I could see it working with a pneumatic 2 way cylinder. You wouldn't have to have a large air tank. It would only need to flip up when you were over 90mph. I just need a wing that will allow that much tilt. I have the rest figured out. Even the speed actuated portion of it..

      The pneumatic cylinder would work it instantly. Maybe even to fast. May have to put a regulator on the line...

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