Engine Sputters when throttle is hit and let off then hit agian quickly

  • Has anyone figured this out? I have the same issue and It's super annoying...... At the very least, should I be worried... I'm on stage 2x, running 91 gas... I know everyone here probably thinks that's a bad idea, but Bob told me I'm perfectly fine... He said he ran 91 on all the forced induction slingshots he tuned out here... Other than the sputtering after shifting, it runs great!

  • Nope, mine still does it, I try and be mindful when I shift at certain times but it still lets me know if I don't.
    Mine did it since new in pure stock setup. I wish I knew the answer but I don't. I now have built engine with smaller pulley on the SC, so a lot has been changed yet the issue is still there, so I know it's not sensors/spark plugs, Ect.... the ECM was flashed so it's not software but I do suspect the ECM still since not all have issue.

    Why buy one when you can have two at twice the price..... :evil:

  • Nope, mine still does it, I try and be mindful when I shift at certain times but it still lets me know if I don't.
    Mine did it since new in pure stock setup. I wish I knew the answer but I don't. I now have built engine with smaller pulley on the SC, so a lot has been changed yet the issue is still there, so I know it's not sensors/spark plugs, Ect.... the ECM was flashed so it's not software but I do suspect the ECM still since not all have issue.

    Yea mine never did it stock, nor did it do it with the Cai, header/exhaust, Bob's tune setup..didnt happened until I installed the turbo... I've done general searches on Google and it seems it's a common issue among turbos in general.. Some say it was fixed with a tune, others say coils, others say spark plugs, injectors etc... So it seems they're might not be a real solution...i bought the aem fail safe gauge... As soon as I install it, I'll post some data logs and hopefully someone will see something... I won't know how to read it lol

  • This info is for my turbo buddies. I have no personal experience with the supercharged slingshots.


    This is going to ruffle feathers for some. But the truth is the truth.....Soon as I ditched the factory ECU I was able red line every gear with the Haltech. I also was able to use an electronic boost controller with the Haltech.


    I have never never never never seen a turbo slingshot with a tuned ECU that would act correctly and not stumble when you bump the rev limiter and shift. AND I have never seen one that would allow a electronic boost controller to be used correctly.

  • This info is for my turbo buddies. I have no personal experience with the supercharged slingshots.


    This is going to ruffle feathers for some. But the truth is the truth.....Soon as I ditched the factory ECU I was able red line every gear with the Haltech. I also was able to use an electronic boost controller with the Haltech.


    I have never never never never seen a turbo slingshot with a tuned ECU that would act correctly and not stumble when you bump the rev limiter and shift. AND I have never seen one that would allow a electronic boost controller to be used correctly.

    So in other words, chances are we will have to upgrade the ecu of we want to eliminate this problem... I've never hit the Rev limiter in any of my 3 setups (stock, bolt ons, turbo).. But my issue only happens with the turbo and aggressive driving... Sigh... I don't think I'm ready to fork out another grand for an upgraded ecm lol... Just gonna have to learn to live with it

  • When I switched to the Haltech I noticed that the weird engine behaviours that I used to have to just deal with were Completely eliminated.


    I originally switched to the Haltech to run a 3bar MAP and up my boost to 17 to 18 psi and to be able to tune it myself (well Dave tunes it)


    The perfect shifts, being able to bump the red line between gears and it running flawlessly, being able to effortlessly run an electric boost controller, and also the ability to have a true OBD2 port and be able to have Bluetooth guages is just icing on the cake!

  • When I switched to the Haltech I noticed that the weird engine behaviours that I used to have to just deal with were Completely eliminated.


    I originally switched to the Haltech to run a 3bar MAP and up my boost to 17 to 18 psi and to be able to tune it myself (well Dave tunes it)


    The perfect shifts, being able to bump the red line between gears and it running flawlessly, being able to effortlessly run an electric boost controller, and also the ability to have a true OBD2 port and be able to have Bluetooth guages is just icing on the cake!


    Yeah I'm gonna agree with that. I always just assumed it was getting too much fuel and choking up a bit when you hammer down. It's very easy to replicate the sputter between 1-2 and 2-3. If you ease in to the throttle just a bit it won't happen. I'm surprised people are having it with the supers since they're more predictable. There's usually a bit of unburned fuel that makes it to the exhaust after a stutter.

  • I suspected the ECM as I stated earlier, it's not SC or TC but stock as well, it's just not as bad with stock cuz you aren't going anywhere fast anyways... lol
    I don't know anyone around here to help me setup an aftermarket ECM so I guess I'll just keep dealing with it, good thing I at least know how to keep mine from acting up most of the time.
    Poor new Camaro got shamed today, guys wife was taking video as I pulled away from him...classic!! :evil:

    Why buy one when you can have two at twice the price..... :evil:

  • @Garrett Taguchi try shifting as close or higher then 5500 rpms the tune is rich and the fuel system on the slingshot is not the greatest.nothing you can do about the tune thats the way bob has. when you get a gauge in if you haven't .you will see your afr reading as low as 9 when stepping on it and not what we want to really be seeing almost if the motor is flowing out you lose all power then comes right back

  • This info is for my turbo buddies. I have no personal experience with the supercharged slingshots.


    This is going to ruffle feathers for some. But the truth is the truth.....Soon as I ditched the factory ECU I was able red line every gear with the Haltech. I also was able to use an electronic boost controller with the Haltech.


    I have never never never never seen a turbo slingshot with a tuned ECU that would act correctly and not stumble when you bump the rev limiter and shift. AND I have never seen one that would allow a electronic boost controller to be used correctly.

    Amen Brother!


    I am selling off bit o my wife's jewelry to get one

    The more people I meet

    The more I love my Dog!

  • Amen Brother!
    I am selling off bit o my wife's jewelry to get one

    I might have to take this strategy into consideration.. Wife's got at least 4 purses (berberry, Louis vitton, Gucci etc each range from 3 to 5k) that haven't seen the light of day in the last couple of years... I wonder how well purses hold their value hehe

  • @Garrett Taguchi try shifting as close or higher then 5500 rpms the tune is rich and the fuel system on the slingshot is not the greatest.nothing you can do about the tune thats the way bob has. when you get a gauge in if you haven't .you will see your afr reading as low as 9 when stepping on it and not what we want to really be seeing almost if the motor is flowing out you lose all power then comes right back

    That's where I've been shifting lol... Since I've had the turbo installed, I've been too scared to take it passed that.

  • @Garrett Taguchi i see, well i have an alpha turbo and i know that helps. i now have their top mount and it doesn't happen nearly as much. I'm currently in the process of replacing with standalone so hoping to have the issue gone soon enough.like @rabtech said to really drive this sling the way you want with the current set up the polaris ecu will just have to go

  • And let me be clear.... I'm absolutely not saying that the stock ECU with a flash is bad... It is a safe way to get alot more power with minimum expense. And we all know you can have some serious fun with these things with or without boost. I wasn't the first with boost on a SS but I was definitely one OF the first.....AND I just have never heard a single person that didn't have to "re-learn" how to drive these after they added boost. I have had soooooo many people call me and I have had to teach them how to "never hit the rev limiter" and how to "watch the AFR when in 5th and mashing the gas pedal". Sometimes it would try to run lean and the next it would fuel perfectly. Once you learn the secret to all the quirks it becomes second nature to get them to perform.


    You all have my word that the Haltech gets rid of every quirk. (After someone tunes it on a dyno). Which is the key to making them run flawless under any load and in any circumstance you may find yourself in....

  • Hey Cameron let me get to the house and I will type up a detailed answer to each question. I pulled over to type my post above. I had to go get some Raspberry PI computers in Huntsville and am on my way back home.

    Yes, please do, I would like to know this also!!

    Why buy one when you can have two at twice the price..... :evil:

  • @Cameron Roberts haltech itself is like 2000 then install cost would probably depend on shop install could probably be DIY but tuning should probably be done by pros, and tuning pricing is also going to change shop to shop.and thats where it starts to get really pricey unless you have a good relationship with a tuner. or if you have the exact same setup as someone else who is running haltech and you can just download some maps and should probably be done on a dyno unless you have access to some good closed roads where you can do road tunin, which is ideal since its real time driving. and i believe with haltech the only system thats lost is cruise control. but i heard you could repurpose the cruise button to switch maps @rabtech do you know if thats true?