Just installed innovates scg-1 boost controller/air gauge I know a few guys are running or will be running the same game gauge . Wondering where you guys are mounting the map sensor and boost solenoid looking for ideas . Even if you have similar setup different brand ?
Boost controller
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Just installed innovates scg-1 boost controller/air gauge I know a few guys are running or will be running the same game gauge . Wondering where you guys are mounting the map sensor and boost solenoid looking for ideas . Even if you have similar setup different brand ?
Ok. I have to look this gauge up. I am wondering if you have to use the sensor. It seems like you would want it to reference the same sensor that is on the manifold. .
I meant to give you a call yesterday but I have had so many things going on that I haven't had a chance.
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I just looked at it. It's just a 4bar MAP sensor that can be placed anywhere. Your just going to hook up a vacuum line to it so it can see what the pressure is. I would hook it to the intake manifold. Probably on the line where your Blow Off Valve gets it reference.
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Boost solenoid is going to need to be as close to the wastegate as possible (but not dangerously close to heat)
This is what I'm using and DDM is installing for me this week.
I can't remember who was asking me about boost level and just changing the head studs. I would not go over 9 or 10 psi with just ARP head bolts... that is my opinion. But yall can do whatever your comfortable doing...
Just remember there have been a few that came apart at 10psi running ARP head bolts. If I had a 5 psi (what alpha has out of the box) I would shoot for 8.5 to 9 psi. I think that would be a tremendous bump in boost.
It takes less than a second to turn you fun Slingshot into a non mobile lawn ornament. So just bump the boost a couple psi and I bet you will be pleased...
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One note on solenoid placement, those things usually don't like high heat, so I would say amx 200F, so yes it needs to be close to the wastegate, but you better have a bit more tube and a uncooked solenoid.
I placed my 4 port solenoid on the deck where the glove box is, I will take a pic when I get home.
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We have been mounting the solenoid and the MAP sensor along the firewall on a piece of powdercoated sheet metal we have been making here -
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I really like the second picture @Dave@DDMWorks
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We have been mounting the solenoid and the MAP sensor along the firewall on a piece of powdercoated sheet metal we have been making here -
I know a grey one that would like that set up!
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@Dave@DDMWorks just a quick question in that first picture I see you guys using the number 2 and number 3 ports. Are those the pors you would use for a super charger? I know that's the setup you would use for an internal wastegate . Wondering because I wanna make sure mine is definitely hooked up right followed all instructions just wanna. Triple check
Superchargers do not use a boost controller since the boost is controlled by the pulley ratios and can not overboost, unless there is a severe exhaust restriction,etc.
The different ports are used depending on if you are using an external wastegate or an internal wastegate since they are controlled differently. The top picture is how our Slingshot is plumbed for the turbo kit we are testing with an internal wastegate and the bottom picture is how the HAHN kit needs to be plumbed with its external wastegate, same with the Alpha kit.
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Boost solenoid is going to need to be as close to the wastegate as possible (but not dangerously close to heat)
This is what I'm using and DDM is installing for me this week.
I can't remember who was asking me about boost level and just changing the head studs. I would not go over 9 or 10 psi with just ARP head bolts... that is my opinion. But yall can do whatever your comfortable doing...
Just remember there have been a few that came apart at 10psi running ARP head bolts. If I had a 5 psi (what alpha has out of the box) I would shoot for 8.5 to 9 psi. I think that would be a tremendous bump in boost.
It takes less than a second to turn you fun Slingshot into a non mobile lawn ornament. So just bump the boost a couple psi and I bet you will be pleased...
I have the Hahn system with the line running from the turbo to the wastegate (should be 6-7 psi) just installed ARP head studs and was thinking of using the green spring which Precision says should get me 9.4 PSI. Would that be okay or would you recommend rerouting the line from the wastegate to the intake manifold? I believe the Hahn instructions say that would give me 8-9 PSI. Which is faster reacting and has less creep? -
Yes. Reroute the line and close off the turbo port. Don't put in the green spring.
It's much better and the tune was built around that vacuum routing. The other way it just doesn't act correct during shifts at higher RPM.
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Yes. Reroute the line and close off the turbo port. Don't put in the green spring.
It's much better and the tune was built around that vacuum routing. The other way it just doesn't act correct during shifts at higher RPM.
Thanks for the quick response. You're a life saver, or should I say, engine saver? -
Only line you wanna run to that intake manifold is the blow offf or another line off your intake to a afr gauge. Your booost or wastgate line which ever you prefer to use should run from turbo to wastegate just changing your spring alone will be fine but I wouldn't suggest a green spring not to safe with the boost creep u could see probably up into the 11s for boost which I've heard is ur looking for a problem when going that high without a forged motor .safer way would be a red and natural spring which gives u almost 7psi with a creep to 8 maybe mid 8
Thanks. Red and natural is what I have been using. Upgraded the head studs and was looking to up the boost a little too and still have a daily driver I can beat a little too. -
I'll get a barbed fitting installed on the intake and reroute the line like Rab and Hahn suggested and see how well it holds.
