Hawk Brake Pads on sale...

Thanks buddy

I will pick up a back up set

Does anyone recommend the Hawk HB275B.620 Hawk 5.0? They are only $14 bucks more each.

I think I am running the 5.0
I need to check but that is what DDM recommends

Quote from Ruptured Duck

I like the HB275F.620 as a good all around DD pad. Had very little fad and low dust. Regardless they were 20x better than the OE and at $46 a good deal.

So... I know that I should know this. Is it the same pads for all three wheels?

I was able to screw the piston back in by using a good strong pair of needle nosed pliers. Press the tips firmly into the notches of the caliper piston and push as you twist it back in and it works. Don't rush it as you'll have to turn it a few revolutions, but when you don't have the proper adapter for the caliper tool, you have to find a way to do with what you have. Hope it helsp

Quote from funinthesun

I was able to screw the piston back in by using a good strong pair of needle nosed pliers. Press the tips firmly into the notches of the caliper piston and push as you twist it back in and it works. Don't rush it as you'll have to turn it a few revolutions, but when you don't have the proper adapter for the caliper tool, you have to find a way to do with what you have. Hope it helsp

Phil
I am not surprised that you found a solution to something that needed o be screwed

is this the tool that is needed?

Just want to repost this excellent write-up from one of our prime members @Ruptured Duck ( oh snap!.... Did I say Prime Member!)

Installing Aftermarket (Honda - Acura) Brake Pads

So @Ruptured Duck ....You are saying that just by changing the break pads that in your opinion the braking power got better?? Mine are mushy after 2 flushes and my next option was to break down and buy some brace that @slingking was talking to me about in SoCAL. This upgrade will help alone?

STYLN

I have hawk pads 5.0 / drilled rotors from Cycle Springs and the Brace
My brakes are great but I have never eliminated the excess travel. Basically hot 1 pump
If I have to mash the brakes they work fine and it stops, but as they heat up I have travel before the pedal is solid.
Not really a mushy feeling

I have bleed them more than once and they always start out great and fade quickly afterwards

Quote from MACAWS

STYLN

I have hawk pads 5.0 / drilled rotors from Cycle Springs and the Brace
My brakes are great but I have never eliminated the excess travel. Basically hot 1 pump
If I have to mash the brakes they work fine and it stops, but as they heat up I have travel before the pedal is solid.
Not really a mushy feeling

I have bleed them more than once and they always start out great and fade quickly afterwards

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Oh brother! You have no idea!! Mine worked for about 50-75 miles and felt solid then afterwards each time they were crap. My pedal has to be pumped a couple of times before I apply pressure cuz if not it will go damn near to the floor before stopping or slowing. I thought there was a slack adjuster like on an 18 wheeler that needed to be adusted it was that bad or still is that bad.

I threw everything I knew at them and the way they are now is the best I could muster.
I have heard great things about power bleeding - check with @Painter I think he had posted something once about that on the dark side.
There was also a post about reverse bleeding that I heard good things about

Beyond that I can't help.
You could get really good shoes and cut holes in the floor - Finstone it!

Well if I cant figure anything out Ill just stick to pumping the brakes! I get a pedi at least twice a month and the calluses on my feet are pretty much gone now and unable to stop the 120 mph average machine!!

After power bleeding mine I've had perfect brakes! However, when the brake switches were replaced they "reverse bled" the system to resevoir from the bleeders and they are great. I think with the ABS block that is the proper method!

sorry, I just corrected the above post. Should be FROM bleeders TO resevoir! This takes all possible air bubbles out of the ABS and gives a solid pedal.

Use a gallon sprayer with a PSI gauge, new brake fluid in sprayer and pump to 10 PSI. Start with bleeder farthest away and pump new fluid into it and then work your way towards resevoir. Someone will have to suction the resevoir so it does not overflow.
Suck most of resevoir dry before starting.